Little m, a more convenient and inexpensive set of menu additions to the Beverly Hills branch of the M Café de Chaya, recently established itself at the Brighton Way shop, just around the corner from Nate ’n Al, which I imagine leads to a lot of loyal deli fans waltzing by the macrobiotic café and giving a little snicker in passing. It’s a small venue of bright and clean white and green, with devotedly friendly staff offering samples of side salads, and a late morning clientele to be expected – jogging suits, tights-as-pants, a token Andy Warhol look-alike. M Café is wealthy Los Angeles.

Presentation of food here is flawless, every glass case protecting a collection cut into perfect serving sizes, a wide array of colors and textures, promising at every angle. By 11 a.m. the $5 breakfast burritos – brown rice tortillas cradling scrambled tofu, black beans, brown rice, kale and soy cheddar – were all snatched up, and I passed on the breakfast panini, as the combination of scrambled tofu, soy mozzarella, tempeh bacon and macrobiotic ketchup didn’t quite strike the right chord for the moment.

The sushi, like the Shiitake-Avocado and Salmon California Roll, are standard in pricing and appearance - $2 for two decently-sized rolls, save for the Garden Roll, a hand roll approximately two to three bites, at $2 a roll. It’s a food that’s difficult to ruin and meets all expectations here: thick slivers of cucumber, carrot, sweet tofu, chives and avocado, wrapped in sticky brown rice with shiso leaf and ume paste. Its texture comes in the form of several satisfying layers, chew layered over crunch, crunch resting beside more chew. The sweetness of the tofu is well-complimented by a savory bit of soy sauce and wasabi, presented as a daintily-shaped pea in its serving bowl, which – like all other dishes and the earthy décor – appears no less than sterile.

The Scarlet Quinoa, reddened with beet, is perfectly fine, fresh and tart, containing diced zucchini and beet, with delicate touches of dill and lemon rind, though a plate of quinoa can be a bit daunting much the same way that a soup of pure liquid becomes repetitive.

Eleven bucks is a passable deal, although the end of the meal found me still hungry. M Café’s menu carries some appeal – refer to the Big Macro, a burger of brown rice and veggies, the smoked salmon on a sprouted grain bagel, the perfectly sweetened tofu or a wrap like the curried tempeh salad.