Capriotti’s made a bold gesture setting up shop in Beverly Hills. With monster delis and sandwich chains around the way, the competition is pretty stiff. But the sandwich shop holds its place with its no-nonsense approach to the nostalgia of all things sandwiches (In fact, it’s located where Quiznos used to be.).

Capriotti’s originated in the Little Italy section of Wilmington, Del., about 34 years ago, when Lois Margolet followed her dreams of making fresh sandwiches for “real turkey lovers” in her neighborhood, which was already heavily dominated by sandwich shops just blocks from each other. Named after her grandfather, Philip Capriotti, Margolet and her brother were innovative for the time, roasting whole turkeys overnight and preparing them with fresh bread and cheeses.

It took about 11 years for the second and third Capriotti’s to open, and in the meantime the sandwich shop had developed their signature and most popular sandwich, the Bobbie. Today, Capriotti’s has locations in 10 states, including Nevada and Arizona. One thing that keeps the fast-casual chain strong is the uniformity of all the sandwiches, as well as their ability to offer regional items to those who prefer something a little off the beaten path (Cheeseburger sub, anyone?).

Capriotti’s sandwiches are not small by any sandwich standards. The medium is 12 inches and a large, well, that’s 20 inches of pure goodness. When you order a small, it comes on a 9-inch roll, and in the case of the Bobbie, piled high with the fresh, roasted pulled turkey, cranberry sauce, stuffing and mayo. It’s literally Thanksgiving-to-go year round.

One thing that’s very important to me in a great sandwich is that the bread is soft, but holds up to the toppings. It’s just like pizza; if the toppings make the dough go limp, it takes the joy out of eating a slice. I mean, why not just order a plate of toppings?

The answer is yes, the bread holds up exceptionally well, especially when homemade roast beef, coleslaw, Russian dressing (close to Thousand Island but 1,000 times better) and provolone are placed in it. That particular bad boy is called the Slaw Be Jo, but thank goodness it’s definitely slaw, not slop.

Should you prefer to indulge in the more traditional offerings like an old-fashioned ham, tuna, capicola (my favorite) or cheese, you’re in for a treat. The subs come standard with provolone cheese, crisp lettuce, tomato and onions. And just like those old sandwich spots, you can choose to add on oil, vinegar, salt and pepper.

Even though Capriotti’s is right next to the $5 foot long franchise, I say spend the extra $2 and try the subs at Capriotti’s. You want cheese steak? Capriotti’s has it, with optional hot peppers.

Fear not vegetarians, you don’t get stuck with the nominal choice of cheese on a roll with toppings. You get a great selection! There’s the Veggie Cheese Steak and Veggie Turkey. A standout is the breaded Eggplant Parmesan with thick marinara sauce and parmesan cheese. These products are made with soy and vegetables, and you can even ask if they have any specials!

You can order most of the sandwiches on white, wheat or Kaiser rolls. If the 9 inch seems too much to conquer, ask for the kids’ option. You won’t get any sneers or snickers … well, maybe just a few lighthearted ones.

For more information, call (310) 858-1383 or visit