I have a theory that brunch was invented by someone either too lazy (or too hung-over) to get out of bed in time for breakfast on the weekend. Brunch menus usually reflect this attitude – take some breakfast dishes, a couple lunch dishes and, presto, brunch is served! Shouldn’t brunch be afforded the same respect as any other meal?

Fortunately, there are places that actually put thought into their brunch menu. I’m sure most of you foodies are already familiar with Ammo in Hollywood. Ammo has recently started serving brunch on Sunday, creating dishes specifically for this misunderstood meal.

For me, there’s only one way to start the Sunday brunch experience – drinks. Hair of the dog, right? I ordered a spicy Bloody Mary, and my friend Kristen had a peach Bellini. The Bloody Mary was spot on, with plenty of horseradish without being overpowering and garnished with an olive, cherry tomato and caper berry. The peach Bellini was a real winner as they use fresh peaches, and the peach bits dance around in the glass, creating an almost lava lamp experience. It’s delicious, light and refreshing – the perfect launching pad for the food to come.

To start the meal, we ordered the “Very Healthy Banana Bread.” Made with only two ounces of butter, whole wheat bread and plenty of bananas, the bread was moist and delicious.

I was happy ordering a healthy option to start, but the general manager, Benny Bohm, insisted we try the breakfast Beignets, and I’m so glad he did! Beignets are not unlike a mini doughnut, and the Beignets at Ammo come as six little round balls of deep-fried love, accompanied by a fruity dipping sauce. The outside is dusted in sugar and slightly crisp, and the insides melt in your mouth like a snowflake on your tongue. The acidic dipping sauce cuts the sweetness so you don’t feel like you’re eating a sugar cube … or a Krispy Kreme doughnut, which is essentially the same thing.

For my entree, I ordered the beef short rib hash with roasted potatoes, cipollini onions and two poached eggs. What a star the dish is! This is a deconstructed hash, with each element separate from each other, but they work together in harmony when you eat. The beef short ribs are moist and tender with a deep, musky beef flavor.

Kristen went with the frisée and lardon salad with poached egg and whole grain mustard vinaigrette. It’s a beautifully plated salad with a mélange of different colored greens. I also detected radicchio and Italian parsley, which was an interesting touch. Lardon is similar to bacon but isn’t smoked, so you still get the full pork flavor without the smokiness. The poached egg was cooked to perfection, and the creaminess of the yolk played well off the acidity of the vinaigrette.

Other items on the menu that look quite enticing include brown butter crepes with sautéed peaches, thick-cut brioche French toast with cherry compote and whisky-barrel maple syrup, and grass-fed California beef patty melt on rye bread with grilled onions, white cheddar, arugula and French fries. As you can see, this is a far cry from what you’ll get at Denny’s.

After such a fine meal, I was able to sit back and take in the relaxed surroundings. Wood-paneled booths with green backing, exposed ceiling pipes and a brushed, non-tiled floor give the space a “Zen industrial” feel. Soft music, including the Stones and Dylan, plays in the background, but not too loud to intrude on a conversation.

The crowd was a mix of young Hollywood and hip families, all of who seemed to know the staff and management well. I can see why they already have a regular clientele.

The prices are a bit on the high side but, of course, you get what you pay for. Brunch entrees run from $9 to $17. The drinks could also be a couple bucks cheaper as $11 for a Bloody Mary is a bit much to swallow on a Sunday morning.

So next time you’re looking for a brunch option and the thought of an hour wait for a manhole-sized pancake at Griddle Café turns you off, head down Highland to Ammo. It’s what brunch is meant to be.

For more information, call (323) 871-2666 or visit ammocafe.com.