As if Los Angeles needed another health food restaurant, along comes Lift Bistro, in all its hip and modern glory, bringing forth an exciting new take on healthy cuisine. The brainchild of restaurateur/nightclub owner Steve Adelman, Lift serves food that’s pretty damn delicious.

But while the concept may seem overly ambitious – a 22-hour café/organic grocery/food-to-go service - and the location is a tad risky (lingerie boutiques, shady head shops and punk kids make up the backdrop), one may ask how this visionary little bistro will ever thrive on gritty Hollywood Boulevard.

But this is exactly why Lift rocks – it's got balls for being so innovative.

The restaurant's location on the Boulevard, along with its place in the newly renovated Hillview Apartments, gives it that urban grit and neighborhood air. The interior ambience, waiters clad in black and lit candles illuminating the dark space, is modern and laidback; She Wants Revenge and Daft Punk blare loudly on the speakers.

Featuring a mélange of comfort food and modern gourmet fare, Chef Keith Silverton has created a Contemporary American menu that’s mindfully healthy yet features dishes people will actually want to eat. I can very well say they have succeeded: Lobster Mac-n-Cheese?

I’ll have one of those, please. Filled with chunks of Maine lobster, I shamelessly scarfed down this appetizer like I hadn’t eaten in years.

Our cute and friendly waitress recommended we try the Red Wine Braised Short Ribs with Horseradish, whipped gold potatoes and beets because “the meat falls right off the bone.” Of course we were skeptical about this because, well, we’ve heard a dozen waiters say this before.

But our waitress wasn’t lying. The ribs were divine; the accompanying beets provided a nice crunchy texture to contrast the tender, flavorful meat.

The Olive Oil Braised Salmon with rainbow chard and an autumn vegetable vinaigrette was also heavenly, from the crispiness of the salmon skin to the succulent meat that pretty much melted in my mouth.

Be forewarned, Lift isn’t exactly a cheap eat. You do, however, get what you pay for: good food – made of fresh seasonal ingredients – that doesn’t seem healthy but is. The appetizers are phenomenal, so it’s best if you go with a group of friends to share food that unequivocally raises the bar of L.A. cuisine.

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