Beware, you are entering "Outlaw Country"! That’s Outlaws, Playa del Rey, a "Grubbin’ an’ Guzzlin’ Establishment." This Zagat-rated saloon has been nourishing the townsfolk for 20 years.

Just recently a new sheriff rode into town to tame this lawless place. Her name is Sophie Yoon and she’s a high-spirited, bright, competent woman who has kept the same great Outlaws attitude, spirit and character while making particular improvements so the food is top-notch. Not to mention keeping the Outlaw Library’s tradition of exchanging your old books for ones unread. Outlaws’ library motto is, "Steal a Book. Bring one Back." After all, outlaws read too, even if it’s only "Most Wanted" posters.

At this ranch-style restaurant, Yoon desires folks to come in with a big appetite and leave happy and full. Heck, the menu alone will cause you to gulp! These are man-sized meals.

When you order the Bandit Burger – a half-pound of the finest beef this side of Kansas – your eyes will roll. If you’ve got yourself a real appetite, then shoot for the Desperado, a two-pound burger with all the fixins, It’s supposed to serve four, but if you got the hankering to eat, then go it alone.

For you greenhorns, get yourself a fresh salad or homemade soup. If beef’s not to your likin’, then try a Chicken Chest dinner or Garden Burger. Thomas had the hefty Ground Beef Steak, and Maureen had a hankering for the Tri Tip … mmm good. We even managed a couple doozies for dessert. Warning: Outlaws is not for dieters.

For those dusty, just off-the-trail cowpokes in need of some refreshment to wash down their meals, step up to the rail where you’ll find the best barkeeps this side of the Mississippi. They’ll offer you a choice of 150 foreign and domestic beers and other alcoholic drinks to quench your thirst.

The town regulars, from age 20 and older, love it here. Open every day, Monday through Friday, for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Lots of parking is available.

Outlaws is located at 230 Culver Blvd., in Playa del Rey, (310) 822-4040.