Boardner’s restaurant and its neighboring B52 Club, which lays claim to L.A.’s most revered Goth Night – replete with hot wax and a string-em-up cross – combines the gravitas of old-time Hollywood with the modern amenities and unique touches that nightlife patrons have come to expect.

With its lush, cozy booths, rich wood paneling and stained-glass lighting fixtures, Boardner’s is a warm little portal to the past, but the diverse menu, created by newly-appointed chef Ed Arai, couldn’t be more of the times.

From spicy wings of Tandoori to a tasty trio of mini-burgers, Boardner’s menu has a little something for every palate, be it an early-evening meal or a late-night alcohol absorber.

When I traipsed in on a recent Friday night, accompanied by a grungy fellow named Skoal, we started with the spicy tuna crisps, and a calamari and celery salad. The ahi tuna was rich and full-bodied, flecked with sesame and served with a chunk of guacamole on a flaky, airy chip. Very tasty, but overshadowed by the excellent calamari, which was firm, crispy and drizzled with a savory eel and Japanese curry sauce. We laid waste to those platters before picking from the varied list of main events.

After much deliberation, I opted for the chicken enchilada pizza, while Skoal went for the jalapeño chicken burger and yet another Newcastle. The pizza had a thin crust, a tangy, sumptuous bean layer and a generous coating of cheese, topped off with chunks of shredded chicken. The thick and spicy chicken patty was doused in cheddar and sided with a whopping pile of shoestring fries. Both dishes were wolfed down in no time flat, an ode to their overwhelming deliciousness.

Oh, and the drinks are poured with a heavy thumb on the liquor bottle, if you’re into that sort of thing.

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