“It’s all about the food.”

That simple expression seems quaint in this age of style over substance cuisine, where even the reemergence of comfort food ends up in a battle of egos among top chefs who have never cracked open a box of Kraft Macaroni and Cheese. But that expression still rings true for John Moudakis, owner of Delphi Greek Cuisine.

Tucked away amidst the shops and restaurants along Westwood Boulevard, Delphi offers traditional Greek fare, which means tasty, affordable and abundant.

We started off on the right foot with the cold combo appetizer – tzatziki, hummus and melitzanosalata (eggplant whipped with yogurt, tahini, garlic and herbs) generously portioned on a large plate with plenty of hot pita bread for dipping. This is a must dish for two hungry people or a party of four.

We also couldn’t resist the allure of the Saganaki Flambe, which is Kefalotiri cheese flambéed with cognac right at the table. Anytime you can order a dish that has the potential of burning the place down, you should take it.

It’s a fun appetizer but a much stronger cheese than I’m used to, so it caught my taste buds a little off guard. The dolmades, or stuffed grape leaves, were prepared hot rather than cold, which was a first for me.

On to the main selections, and no Greek meal would be complete without lamb, so the lamb souvlaki was an easy choice. Marinated chunks of shish-kabobing goodness broiled to a burnt char on the outside and juicy and tender inside. We also went with the Delphi combination plate – roasted lamb, stuffed grape leaves and moussaka (a Greek eggplant lasagna, of sorts) among other tasty offerings.

For dessert, Moudakis insisted we try the galaktoboureko, custard wrapped in phyllo dough, basted and baked. This and a good, strong cup of coffee did us both in.

Delphi offers a pleasant alternative in Westwood, nicer than the fast food options in the Village, but not too fancy for a casual meal with friends.

For more information, call (310) 478-2900.